Series

Cycling towards Syria

2016: a 3,000-mile bike ride from London following the routes of migration, reporting from the saddle.

16 parts, 2016–2018, in order.

Start at part 1 Read it as a free ebook
  1. Part 1

    Cycling to(wards) Syria

    This May, I shall set off on a 3,000 mile bicycle tour, following the routes of migration from the safe refuge of London to the bombed-out streets of Syria.…

  2. Part 2

    The Tech Setup

    Ah – the bliss of writing outside! – sun on my face, the sound of trickling waterfalls around me and the scent of freshly budding flowers. Not bad at all,…

  3. Part 3

    Cycling Towards Syria: Days 1-3

    I’m writing this sitting on the beach front in Calais. A mother and two small children are scootched in the sand, and footprints mark where they’ve been…

  4. Part 4

    Conversations in Calais

    We are currently holed up in Petite Fort Philippe, equidistant from both Calais and Dunkirk, home to two of the largest migrant camps in Northern France.…

  5. Part 5

    Grande-Synthe & Calais: Compare and Contrast

    The Grande-Synthe migrant camp in Dunkirk is to the Calais jungle as Milton Keynes is to London. Where Calais is only now having order imposed on a meandering…

  6. Part 6

    Cooking Sudanese Halla with The School Bus Project

  7. Part 7

    Story of the Day #23: An Unexpected Hill

    There wasn’t meant to be a hill. We’d spent days slogging up through the steeple forests of Westphalia, precisely to reach this promised Rhineland.

  8. Part 8

    Story of the Day #24: Industrial Germany

    The stench should have been a clue. I couldn’t work out whether it was a really foul cesspit, or a really good cheese. Whatever it was, it was strong and it…

  9. Part 9

    They Want Me to Fly Like a Bird: Travels in the Belgian Asylum System

    A four year old sits on a double bunk bed, his legs tucked under, assiduously scrubbing his remote controlled car with a nail brush. His older brother is…

  10. Part 10

    Refugee Hospitality

  11. Part 11

    #25 Heidelberg Helps

    Heidelberg feels less a town and more a university campus. Arriving from the industry laden north, we’re suddenly in the land of bicycles, scrubbed smiles and…

  12. Part 12

    #34: Grandhotel Cosmopolis

    Boutiques serve coffee and fine art, grafitti scratches the medieval walls and students sit cross-legged on the cobbled squares, drinking Radler and slurping…

  13. Part 13

    Refugees Like It's 1699!

  14. Part 14

    From containers to computers: the challenges of refugee integration in Germany

    Since leaving London at the beginning of May, we’ve cycled about a thousand kilometres through England, France and Belgium, talking to residents and refugees…

  15. Part 15

    On the walls of Zollamtsstrasse refugee camp

    Our journey along the storm-swollen Danube threads through castle-and-schnapps country into Austria. The further we cycle on this ride across the continent,…

  16. Part 16

    #74: Cycling to Syria - back in the saddle!